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Rosette Cutter Question http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=15198 |
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Author: | leerobs42 [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 2:22 am ] |
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Hello, I am considering purchasing the Rosette Drill Press Cutter from LMII but before I did I wanted your guys opinion on it first. Its kind of an expensive item and I don't want it to become like some of the other tools I've purchased over the years that become dust collectors because what I have now is actually better. Currently I am using the old Stew-Mac Dremel rosette cutter. The one where the Dremel just screws into it. I just feel like I am getting sloppy cuts with it. Well anywho, thanks for the help, Brandon. |
Author: | Rod True [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 2:37 am ] |
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I made my own router base from some pictures shown by Tony Karol about a year ago, you can find a couple of threads here, here and on Sylvan Wells website here. These bases are really easy to make, they are very accurate and easy to use and the cost to make is about $10 max. I also know that Hesh has been using the new stew-mac circle cutter with good results. |
Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 3:07 am ] |
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Here is a vote for the StewMac Circle cutter. I have the older version without the nice adjustable screw, but it still works. Setting it at the end with the depth setting of a caliper is how I do it and set the screw. |
Author: | Hesh [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 3:28 am ] |
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Brandon I wanted the LMI jig too for a long time but as time went by I kind of stopped wanting it. Mind you it is very well made and would be excellent for someone who wants to stamp out the exact same rosette over and over - a factory or small production shop comes to mind. But I get very good results and consistantly gapless rosettes with the Stew-Mac router base and a dedicated, late model Dremel with a sharp spiral down-cut bit. This combo also lets me get creative, even though I rarely do, and easily make changes for different width purfings, rosettes, etc. So I like what I use now and it works great for me. But again this is a very cool jig and I am sure it is well worth the money. |
Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 3:38 am ] |
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I have two of the LMI cutters. They are a bi**c* to set up if you are targeting a precise rosette design (probably less so if you are still a little flexible in the design). And once they are set up forget about changing them. It is just too much work. However, if you use the same rosette over and over again they are awesome. In a few seconds you can get a perfect set of channels. The other thing is your drill press needs to be very well set up and have very little run out. I have set mine up to cut common rosettes, and then I made dedicated router base plates to cut the wood rings that will fit in the rosette with my purf schemes. The set up is not much fun. Lots of frustrating tweaking, but once it is set up it is a dream to use. |
Author: | DP LaPlante [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 4:12 am ] |
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I used to use a router w/circle attachment for this, then I went to the Stew Mac/Dremel set up. I too experienced some less than clean cuts even with the down cut bits mostly due to the fact that the Dremel uses sleeve bearings (not ball bearings) thus the bit can vibrate. I'm now using a combination of the LMI hand rosette cutter to zero in on the final cut/fit and the dremel to remove the bulk of the stock inside the cut. At this point each of my rosettes are one off and I must say that the LMI drill press cutter looks like overkill unless you are in a production situation. |
Author: | tippie53 [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 4:26 am ] |
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I use a modified Stew Mac unit with an air die grinder. The dremel is horrid for very close tolerance work . The sleeve bushings just don't work. The die grinder uses roller bearings but will need an air compressor. |
Author: | leerobs42 [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:00 am ] |
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Thanks for all the info. First I'll try using better bits in my stewmac jig and see what happens. I would like to be able to get creative with my rosettes and the lmii cutter (from what it sounds) may not be the direction I want to go. Can anyone recommend some good bits for cutting rosettes with my stewmac/dremel cutter? Thanks again for all the help, Brandon. |
Author: | KenH [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:11 am ] |
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I had problems with the dremel cutter's sleve bushings. With a very small bit in the dremel, the "grains" of the top would actually bend the tool so that it would produce a very sloppy cut. I bought a home made circle cutter rig from Lance in a swap meet a year or so ago and since then I have been producing some very clean and repeatable size rosettes. I am most happy with the setup which includes a laminate trimmer. I will mention that I used to cut my rosettes with the drill press mounted "fly cutter", but you can forget this type of setup if your drill press table isnt EXATLY level and perpendicular to the drill head. When you are dealing with a top that is only .110 thick, even the slightest bit of being unlevel can make disasterous results. |
Author: | davidmor [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:48 am ] |
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Another vote for the Stewmac circle cutter here. |
Author: | Rick Hubka [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:49 am ] |
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Yet another vote for the Stewmac router, but with their custom Foredom handpiece as seen here in my new home shop. No bushing problems with a Foredom and someday I hope to you this setup for inlays. Happy New Year from Calgary Canada eh!!! |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:20 am ] |
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I have the improved StewMac, LMI clear lexan and a drill press fly cutter. Each are good at what they do buy for me since I make many different rosette styles and sizes I have to say I like the LMI Clear lexan base the best, but I wished it used a better thumb screw adjustment system. The thumb screw on it is a stop type system rather than positive micro control in both directions. I get the time I am going to alter it. |
Author: | stan thomison [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:42 am ] |
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I have the LMI and what Brock said. Forget the instructions, they will just mess you up more and are worthess IMHO. Good concept, but a pain in the ... to set up. Once there if get there, don't want to keep doing it over to do other rosettes. If they came up with somthing to show the measurment and adjust without taking it apart and figuring where your at on each side would be a great tool. Maybe good instructions or a setup video would be good also. You probably (no you can make one as they did in Maine, but is is the same as the cutters were perm installed. I am going to set it up and use it because, well it cost to much to leave hanging. |
Author: | stan thomison [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:53 am ] |
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To add< have used Dremel on many tops also. It is ok, but always seem to have little chip outs. A lot of that was my problem, because tried going to deep and fast. I have thought of doing a rig with a trimmer, but don't have or know where to get the small dia. bits for 1/4 needed shaft. Very seriously thinking of getting a Fordam unit. I have no problem with fly cutter and grinding cutters for width of cuts. My only concern is once using it, I got distracted by one of the grandsons. Turned it on and cutter (after adjusting it) forgot to tighten the thing and it flew and stuck in a wall not far from where grandson was standing. Scared me so bad, I refused to use them. But like anything I have gone back and pulled them out. Main point don't use any tool after/during conversation, not fully attentive without checking it out and makeing sure it is setup right and ready to go. WHATEVR THE TOOL |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 4:15 am ] |
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Stan, I assure you you will never regret buying a Foredom. With a proper fitting base the run-out is zip. The first problem with tear out when using the dremel has more to do with bit attack in relation to grain orientation as well as the depth of cut and RPM chosen. If you notice, your tear out will be as you approach near but not quite perpendicular to the grain. a climbing cut in the transition areas will help eliminate this. The second Problem is Dremels have notorious run-out issues and wear on the plastic threads can lead to a not so good of base to motor connection which makes the run-out even worse. |
Author: | JHerrick [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:15 am ] |
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Microfence....It's pricy but works great and is extremely accurate. I've used it for multiple circles to single large (spanish style) rosette channels. You can get them for different routers and laminate trimmers. This gives me access to better bits and less run out. I use mine with an old PC 690 and spiral bits. It comes with stop collars that allows you to repeat cuts. If I make a cut that is a little too narrow..no problem dial in another .001" or 2. I've found very little backlash in the adjustment dial as well. It also will function as a straight edge guide. I use it for routing my truss rod slots. Joe |
Author: | Brock Poling [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:38 am ] |
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And... likewise, if you are going to THAT class of carriage, the Bishop Cochran base is really fantastic. I use mine for all sorts of things. I use a PC 310 in mine. |
Author: | Kent Chasson [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 2:25 pm ] |
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For the price of the LMI rig, you can buy 10-12 regular fly cutters, grind the bits accordingly, and end up with dedicated cutters for at least 3 different rosettes. Not quite as quick as doing them in one pass but you would have to be doing some serious production to worry about a few extra minutes per rosette. |
Author: | Dave Anderson [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 4:07 pm ] |
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I'm using the newer Stew-Mac jig with my Dremel. But I've been eye-ballin' that Cochran base for a while now! |
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